Whitehaven - Motherby
Day 1, 15 May 2008
the day's photos | the day's stats
- Beginning the C2C
- First rest stop
- Loweswater
- Whinlatter Visitors' Centre
- Keswick railway path
- A66 and all that
- Motherby
We arose around 06:30 and got ready to meet for breakfast at 07:00.
After filling ourselves we did our final preparations (i.e. fumbled around in the yard with our baggage)
and busted our machines out of the "secure parking".
This had been a courtyard exposed to the elements and smokers from the pub.
We made our way to the start which was only a few hundred yards away.
Beginning the C2C
The morning was bright and fresh with not a cloud in the sky. We hoped it would stay this way, but it was England.
We gingerly picked our way through the bird poop to get down the ramp to the C2C marker.
There were some menacing looking swans amongst the birds but they'd probably seen it all before so they treated us with passive indifference.
After some photos we mounted up and prepared to leave. A cheery local wished us well and with high spirits we pushed off at 08:07. At approximatetly 08:07 and 30 seconds (and as far as Argos), Peter asked if we could stop so he could send a text message.
After some button fumbling we pushed off again and made our way along Preston Street, past the roundabout and left on to the path around Focus DIY. We rode through the 'burbs of Whitehaven through quiet estates, avoiding broken glass and dog turds - skills we'd hone in the next three days. The route joins the railway path which inclines gradually and we could tell it was getting more rural as the dog turds changed to horse turds.
First rest stop
We'd decided that the sensible thing to do was stop every hour and have something to drink and a bite to eat.
Our first took place between mile 7 & 8 by one of the many sculputures on the path made from old bits of industry.
Eventually we left the rail path onto a lane by Lamplugh School. This quiet road took us by rolling fields
with stunning views of the fells. The sheep and cows were sunning themselves and all seemed right with the world.
For Pedro the best cycling is along lanes like these. Many people like railway paths because they are relatively flat. Pedro finds these boring as invariably they are bordered by trees and you have no idea where you are - it's like driving on a motorway. You may go past Leeds, but you don't see Leeds.
Loweswater
After some twists and turns we descended to Loweswater and found a nice spot in the trees by the water's edge for
another break; We both agreed it certainly beat working for a living.
Pressing on, we knew that a climb was coming up Whinlatter. We played relay with a couple of road cyclists (on what most people would call “racing bikes”)
until eventually we reached the bottom of the long climb. Peter bade Pedro farewell at this point because while Pedro favoured the "wham bam
thank you mam" approach to hills, Peter's relationship was more "on-off". Mostly "off",
as it would turn out.
As the climb steepened, Pedro started gaining on the trailing roadie who was huffing and puffing along. His bike was lighter, but Pedro did have a loaded tourer. With a cheery "Nice day!" Pedro passed the struggling not-so-fast racer; Okay, Pedro probably had better gearing but that's beside the point. After climbing hard, Pedro paused to chat to the lead roadie while his mate caught up.
Whinlatter Visitors' Centre
Setting himself up on a bench, Pedro relaxed and waited for Peter's arrival. It looked like they'd recently remodelled the place and grounds keepers were sowing grass seed and such like. Also, as it was mid-week it was a great time to be at that sort of place. Mostly it was more senior citizens who clearly didn't have any concern for the tedium of work. There were no screaming kids and families either. Yes, Pedro decided that week days were the best time to do anything. Eventually Peter came into view and clambered up the hill to arrive around 12:00. Perfectly timed for lunch, sir. The morning had gone well and Pedro hadn't killed his cycling partner (although he didn't look totally peachy).
We repaired to the "Siskine Café" for a bite to eat. It was relatively quiet but we imagined at the weekend
it would probably be a lot busier and the wait for service considerably longer.
Anyway, Pedro's tuna-mayo baguette was very tasty, while Peter opted for the civilised toasted teacake.
Suitably refreshed we continued our journey - next goal Keswick. The windy track down from Whinlatter centre is indeed steep as the map indicates. Pedro questioned the obsession with keeping us off the roads. Is the loose surface safer than the short stretch on a road? Yep, here comes another of his rants. Anyway we bottomed out and joined a lane that led to a shaky suspension bridge over the River Greta.
Keswick railway path
The road led us into Keswick and out the other side to join the railway track by the old station building. As Pedro said earlier, he has some ambivalence about these railway paths. They are safe, level and relatively fast but they are dull. Throw into the mix the walkers who hog the path and it just gets annoying. Occasionally a nice vista opened up and all the old bridges we passed over were interesting, if somewhat rusty. Greta Bridge that carries the A66 over the path was interesting and we're sure the occupants of the house underneath were pleased about its construction. Apparently it was voted best concrete bridge 1999. Now you know.
We stopped for rest at a brick shelter on the path. An informative history display reminded us of the area's industrial heritage like many other areas in the country.
At mile 34 we popped out alongside the A66 and there then followed a stretch alongside the road.
After so long cycling tranquil tracks and lanes, this was a stark reminder of how bloody awful the
roads are these days.
A66 and all that
Rolling through the village of Threlkeld we climbed again and started another pointless detour at about mile 37 (did you see the rant on this?).
More walking by Peter and lots of gates to go through, saw us get to the detour's turning point at
Mungrisdale with the pub and a river. We had a rest at a convenient bench before continuing and arriving back at the A66 and the path again.
We weren't far from Motherby, our first night's stop and although tired we knew it wouldn't be long now. For a stretch we were on the old A66 road that ran at the side of the current road and this was nice and wide. An older couple soon caught up with us as Peter pushed. They stopped for a quick chat before showing us a clean pair of heels in their race for Penrith.
Motherby
At mile 44 it was time to leave the route 71 and take a slight diversion to get to Motherby. Pedro led the way and rolled through this pleasant village, remembering that Motherby House was the last on the right. Indeed it was and he arrived around 16:25 to be greeted by Jackie our host from the bedroom window. After throwing the bikes in an out-house the first thing offered was a cup of tea with cake. Marvellous.
Our room was a "family room" and had four beds in total - two were bunks. Peter took the one closest to the window and Pedro the bottom bunk in the corner; this was tactical due to potential snoring issues as he wanted maximum distance. The room was comfortable and very much the typical B&B; a little old fashioned but clean and warm.
Jackie kindly phoned ahead to the Herdwick Inn in Penruddock to alert them to our arrival for dinner. After getting cleaned up we hobbled down the road. The walk was said to be 10 mins but was nearer 15 in our tired state. At the inn, the landlord greeted us as we walked in and soon we were enjoying a pint and ordering our food. We had a table by the window and watched as other customers arrived. It had been a long day but we were pleased with ourselves.
Around 19:30 we wandered back up to Motherby. It was a very pleasant evening but we were tucked up in bed for not long after 20:00 as we had another long day ahead of us.
For groups doing the C2C Motherby House is a good place to stop due to the warm welcome and hospitality.
The end of day allowed for some reflection. The weather had been excellent with blue skies all day. It hadn't been too hot for Pedro (he doesn't like hot) and the mid-May temperatures were perfect. So far the signage had been excellent. We didn't really need our maps for navigating but would recommend taking one as you can see where you are and how far you have to go. Pedro had ridden long distance holidays before and tried different types of snack foods. For this ride he'd opted for flapjacks and they seemed to be working well. The oats gave the long-term energy while sugary syrup the quicker hit needed.
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